global212

Getting to these little Mixtec pueblos takes some maneuvering. The pickup truck left a bit earlier and I stopped to talk, so I missed it by 15 minutes. Cursing myself since I would have to go the next day and have one day less of interviewing San Jose Lagunas, a Mixtec town of 800 that has 200 of it´s residents in NYC, I went into a small tienda to buy a phone card to tell the señora where I am staying that I would be coming back for the night. The man in the tienda asked where I was from and told me he had worked in New York, not a surprise since half of Tlapa has spent time in NYC. He told me he worked in Manhattan and when I asked where, he said¨at 96th St. and Broadway - at a taco truck...I almost fell over when he told me since I have been doing an ethnographic study of that very truck since October. As it turns out, he and his sister are the founding owners of the taco truck. I happened to have my computer to show photos of the truck and the workers. I sat and talked with him and his family for more than three hours in the tienda, getting all of my questions about the taco truck answered. So as it goes, just when you think everything is in a mess, it´s really the way it´s supposed to be - so enjoy the moment.

All has been fairly calm in Oaxaca, just silent protests to the zocolo after the two weeks of commercialized Guelaguetza`s. Just quiet marches down from the auditoriom, where the t-shirt sellers camp out...just 100 pesos. APPO t-shirt anyone? Apart from the radical group bombing the local Sears last week, no altercations have taken place. Thanks to all of you who wrote your concerns, but my response was "what bombing?", since it made the international news before I checked the local newspaper...Not to make light of it, as this group has been going around the country bombing gas stations - and bombs and gasoline do not mix - but it`s all in response to Carlos Slim, who owns half of Mexico, being named the richest man in the world...the wealthiest lives in one of the poorest - and this inequality is just what generates all this protest.

I enjoyed the markets and the ruins and I finally feeling like I am making some progress with this challenging tonal indigenous language. Kuni mee ka'an tu'un savi va'a. (!Quiero habler Mixteco bien!/I want to speak Mixtec well!) I am now in the neighboring state, in Tlapa, Guerrero, visiting a small pueblo for a few days, where I will practice the language and visit families who have family in New York. More soon.
Saludos.

The Guelaguetza Popular, the Oaxacan music and dance festival, put on yesterday by the teachers and the APPO, as an alternative to next week´s government one, was a success, even if marred by police violence...Originally it was to be held at the Fortin, where the comercially, governmentally run Guelaguetza will be held next week, but by orders of Governor Ulises Ruiz, the police occupied the space over the weekend, and it was moved to the Plaza de las Danzas in the city center. A few from the APPO and the teachers union went up to the Fortin in the morning, where the police brutally attacked those wanting to get to the public space. Over 40 people, ranging in ages from 15 to 67 years old, have been held in custody.

In the afternoon, the festivities continued and the police circled the streets in ther armored cars and threw tear gas at the top of the hill as intimidation tactics. In the evening they did the same, as the documentary ´Compromiso Cumplido´ which documents last years´ protests, was filmed in the zocalo. While they were far enough away in their roving vans to not see the whites of their eyes, their machine guns were in plain sight. It was very freaky. You would think we were in a police state and not a supposed democracy. Is there any doubt why the people want the governor out of office?
Today the streets are calm. There has not been any more disturbance, nor police presence. The government has done more harm in scaring the people away from Oaxaca than the APPO...

July 2007

July 2006

July 2007


July 2006

On the outside, Oaxaca looks like it is back to "normal", but the the fallout and residue from last year's struggle has not settled. While the zocalo no longer has protest paraphenalia nor encroaching emcampments of people, the streets are a buzz with political banter and look like a painted patchwork quilt from the washed over grafitti.




The school year has been extended three weeks, to this Friday, but it certainly will not make up for the three months last fall, when classes were suspended. There is a threat from the APPO that more protests will take place on July 16, the first day of vacation, but no one knows. The city is divided as ever, with those supporting the movement and others wanting it to end. The state representative elections will be held on August 5, so July will be filled with interesting politics.

Speaking of politics, what happened in the U.S. last week with the Supreme Court ruling on race and school admissions as well as the immigrant reform legislation in Congress? Que pasa?

Hello everyone,
Last week seemed like there were hopes for a peaceful ending to the stuggle as the teachers had decided to resume classes this Monday. However, with the deaths of three people, including New York independent reporter, Brad Will on Friday, the federal troops went into the Oaxaca City today, tearing down the barricades and starting the violence no one hoped would begin.
The threats of the helicopters a few weeks ago created a tense month, but as my friend said, "pasa mucho y realmente no pasa nada" - A lot has happened, but really nothing has happened - until now, that is.
The following photos and video paint a horrific picture.

From Reuters: http://news.yahoo.com/photos/ss/events/wl/101006oaxacaunrest
YouTube has several videos and I am sure more from today's events will be downloaded soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9oH3I4GH3E

En pax,
Leslie

Hello,
I wanted to give you an update on the situation in Oaxaca. Many of you have emailed questions wondering the status and as of today, the situation is very grave. For the month of September, the strike continued with more intensity. The APPO increased the numbers of barricades it set up throughout the city as literally thousands of blockades at were interspersed at corners and intersections. There has been a no negotiation stance from the APPO. The demand is that Governor Ulises Ruiz resigns. President Fox, President-elect Calderon, and PAN and PRI senators have given support to the Oaxacan governor to stay, as a resignation or impeachment would surely stir the waters in the whole country...Since Saturday government helicopters have been circling the city - signaling that the military is preparing to enter. In speaking with friends this morning, life is not "normal", but as normal as it can be with the imminent danger. The APPO is still in the streets and the people are going to work. As one friend said to me, it is not much different as when I left at the end of August, only now there are a few helicopters overhead...However, the situation is not looking good and the extreme is quickly coming. I will keep you updated as I know more.
Saludos,
Leslie

Since last Wednesday, when Oaxacan governor Ulises Ruiz stated he would not resign, the APPO has been using more force to get their voice heard. Banks were surrounded and closed on Thursday and the entrances and exits to the city were blocked on Friday, Monday and Tuesday, paralyzing the city. On Monday morning the government attacked and killed one of the APPO who were standing guard over the Canal 9 station that the women overtook last week. In retailiation the APPO stormed and took over the twelve radio stations in the city, seized the public transportation busses and used them as roadblocks at intersections all around the city. The school year was supposed to have started on Monday, but was suspended by the teachers. A new group, "Oaxaca en Paz" (Oaxaca in Peace) has now sprung up against the APPO. Posting the photos and home addresses of the leaders on their website (www.oaxacaenpaz.org.mx), they are urging people to sequester the leaders. Now isn't that peaceful? It's "civil society" against the government and "civil society" against "civil society". While the teachers and the APPO had many supporters early on, more and more are abandoning them, as it has been three months of road closures, bank closures, and traffic jams. With each passing day there is more forceful retailiation and more insecurity as no one knows what may come to pass. It's a real 'Mexican standoff' (!) as each side is not backing down. No one seems to be gaining anything from this, but most importantly the children are the ones who are losing out, as they are not in school.
I have been trying to leave for four days, but with the blocked highways suspending bus service, my only option is to fly out to Mexico City tomorrow in order to make my scheduled flight from D.F.back to the U.S. I have so many mixed feelings as there seemed to be hope for some change, but it seems to be deteriorating in violence. While history does point out that violence and revolution can create change, my peaceful warrior wants another route taken. I have been impressed by the organization and the ability to mobilize quickly. The use of the media: radio, websites, newspaper, and tv has been most impressive and the expressive graffittiart has been a pleasure in the midst of the mess. Enjoy the photos.

HERE'S ONE SIDE OF THE STORY...AND NO WORD FROM THE OTHER

********************************
DECLARACIÓN DEL PUEBLO DE OAXACA

El pueblo de Oaxaca vive tiempos difíciles. Sin embargo, estos tiempos no son nuevos, desde hace varios años hemos observado con preocupación y tristeza la agudización de la violencia política, la permanente violación a los derechos humanos y la ola feminicida en nuestro estado. Ante los innumerables problemas y demandas de justicia del pueblo, la situación se agrava con el silencio, la indiferencia y la acción impune del gobierno, responsable directo de la ingobernabilidad en el estado.

El pueblo oaxaqueño cobra conciencia, no podemos dejar de escuchar el clamor de su indignación en miles de voces que se volcaron en marchas multitudinarias. El detonador que puso al descubierto el régimen autoritario y la crisis de ingobernabilidad en el estado fueron los hechos recientes del 14 de junio, sucesos en los que se hizo un uso irracional de la fuerza pública. No queremos seguir guardando silencio, queremos soluciones para los problemas de Oaxaca.

Nos rebelamos en contra del gobierno de Ulises Ruiz Ortiz, porque ya no queremos un gobierno que maneje los recursos del pueblo en beneficio de un sector privilegiado de la sociedad. Ya no queremos instituciones que no cumplan con su cometido y que son empleadas para callar la voz del pueblo, en beneficio de partidos políticos. No queremos más discursos con palabras vacías, respaldados en el cinismo y la mentira.

Nuestras palabras se apoyan en la memoria histórica de hechos y agravios que se han cometido al amparo del poder y que permanecen impunes.

Hagamos un recuento:

Tan sólo desde el 2004 hemos tenido que lamentar asesinatos políticos que siguen sin ser aclarados. Desde entonces, las violaciones a los derechos humanos han sido constantes; se reprime la libertad de expresión; se impide la vida independiente de los sindicatos; al interior del estado, se fortalecen los cacicazgos. La justicia se aplica con discrecionalidad y las instituciones encargadas de hacer cumplir las leyes se han convertido en herramientas del poder, con las que se reprimen a líderes y opositores políticos.

Cientos de veces hemos escuchado que el estado de Oaxaca es una de las regiones más ricas del país en diversidad cultural y ambiental. Sin embargo, no existen políticas que reconozcan la interrelación entre pueblos indígenas y recursos naturales para contribuir a su desarrollo. Los programas que se realizan, han deteriorado la producción en el campo, dañan el ambiente y excluyen a la población, que ante este panorama se ve obligada a emigrar; recursos vitales como el agua, se concesionan para beneficio de empresas transnacionales.

Las instituciones encargadas de brindar salud a la población no cumplen con sus funciones. Hay rezago en la atención de enfermedades tan graves como el cáncer cérvico uterino y observamos de forma dramática el incremento de la mortalidad materna. Los hospitales no tienen medicinas suficientes y carecen del equipo mínimo necesario. En el aspecto educativo Oaxaca presenta serias carencias, no sólo en términos presupuestales, sino también en su orientación y contenidos. En cambio, el gobierno se gasta los recursos del pueblo en obras suntuarias e innecesarias, tales como la remodelación del Centro Histórico de la Ciudad, atentando contra el patrimonio cultural de los oaxaqueños.

No hay transparencia ni rendición de cuentas en las acciones de gobierno. Se privilegia la simulación y la manipulación en la asignación de la obra pública para favorecer a empresas de familiares y gente cercana al gobernador; incluso, los programas sociales —federales y estatales— son utilizados por el gobierno estatal con propósitos político-partidistas.

El gobierno atenta contra nuestras tradiciones. Comercializa nuestra cultura en una forma burda e insultante para la población e interviene abiertamente en los municipios y comunidades que no se pliegan a sus consignas. Asimismo, entorpece y violenta la vida comunitaria de los pueblos indígenas, que buscan en sus tradiciones formas de convivencia y eligen a sus autoridades conforme a sus sistemas normativos. El gobierno desconoce la voluntad popular e impone administradores municipales, con lo que fractura la vida comunal.

Todo lo anterior pone de manifiesto el "estado de excepción de facto" que se vive en nuestra entidad. Por eso, el pueblo de Oaxaca se une, no sólo para exigir Juicio Político y la Revocación de Mandato del Gobernador, sino para sentar las bases de los gobiernos que nos representen en el futuro.

Necesitamos y queremos un verdadero gobierno, un gobierno que represente al pueblo de Oaxaca en toda su diversidad: pueblos indígenas, población urbana, campesinos, trabajadores, empresarios, mujeres, hombres, niños, jóvenes y las comunidades lésbico-gay. Un gobierno cuya acción prioritaria sea establecer los puentes de diálogo que den inclusión de todas las voces; que establezca instituciones, leyes y políticas acordes con la diversidad cultural y la autonomía de los pueblos y comunidades de Oaxaca; que respete la libertad de expresión y fomente el derecho a la comunicación en un marco de pluralidad cultural. Un gobierno que genere condiciones de participación para que la sociedad toda construya el desarrollo, la democracia y la gobernabilidad en el estado. Un gobierno incluyente, que trabaje en la búsqueda de soluciones a los problemas políticos, sociales y económicos de Oaxaca y que trabaje en la construcción de instituciones que representen al pueblo, sustentado en la transparencia, en la rendición de cuentas y en el respeto a la voluntad popular.

Para avanzar en la construcción de esta nueva forma de gobierno convocamos a la elaboración de un Programa Político Unitario; llamamos a un Nuevo Pacto basado en el diálogo de todos los sectores del pueblo de Oaxaca. Convocamos a construir Nuevas Formas de Conducción Política, que respeten los derechos humanos; que respeten la vida de las comunidades y la autonomía de los gobiernos municipales; que se conduzcan con igualdad, equidad y transparencia. En suma, llamamos a construir el estado de derecho, la democracia y la gobernabilidad con la instauración de una Nueva Constitución para nuestro estado, que incluya las voces del pueblo oaxaqueño.

La “Declaración del Pueblo de Oaxaca” es un documento abierto al sentir y a las demandas de hombres y mujeres: de campesinos, de comunidades y de pueblos indígenas; de empresarios, sindicatos independientes, trabajadores, maestros, estudiantes, profesionistas y artistas; de personas con capacidades diferentes; de personas con distintos credos religiosos y libres pensadores; de personas con preferencias sexuales diversas y de todos aquellos que creemos que es posible no solamente soñar con un Oaxaca mejor, sino de comprometernos a trabajar en la construcción de una sociedad más justa, de un gobierno que verdaderamente nos represente y trabaje a nuestro lado y con nosotros para hacer de Oaxaca el lugar que queremos. Una tierra donde vivamos con dignidad y justicia.

Oaxaca de Juárez, Agosto de 2006.

AUTORIDADES MUNICIPALES, COMUNALES Y AGRARIAS.

ORGANIZACIONES DE LA SOCIEDAD CIVIL.

ASAMBLEA POPULAR DEL PUEBLO DE OAXACA.

Well the energy is roaring in Oaxaca City at the moment. Everything has ratcheted up in this last week. The radical group APPO (Asemblea Popular del Pueblo) has been blocking the streets and highway entrances of the city, setting some cars and buses (without people in them) on fire. The radio station was overtaken midweek by who knows who, and one man was killed in the demonstration march on Thursday. Again, no one seems to know who or why it happened. One report says a medical clinic was going to be bombed and someone from the clinic came out and shot the man. Another report says he was urinating on someone's propery and was in the wrong place at the wrong time. Both are probably unlikely, but no one really knows...The police are not around, making way for these things to occur. It's causing great confusion and tension. Yesterday, Francisco Toledo and other artists and writers called for a dialogue to end the violence. Oaxaca is the state capital, with over half a million people, so these things are not at my doorstep, but in isolated areas of the city - but believe me, I am staying clear. I did happen to be coming back from Tlapa on Thursday evening at 7pm, just when the roadways were shut down and the melee was beginning. People were everywhere - in the middle of the streets, some shouting and yelling, others just calmly ambling about, trying to get home since the buses were shut down. It was quite a mess.
Even with this chaos, it's a pleasure to be back here, as it was a tough two weeks in Tlapa and surrounding small Mixtec pueblos. It was rewarding and enriching to be able to use the language - as much as I can try at this point. The Guerrero variant of Mixtec is a bit different than Oaxaca, and the variants in the three towns I visited were all different as well. The basics of bathing and bathrooming were a bit of a challenge due to the lack of indoor plumbing, but the sweet generousity of the people took away any smelliness.

The political situation in Mexico is a bit tense at the moment. Both Oaxaca and Mexico City are swirling in tumultuous energy due to the political elections and the unequal social conditions. The Oaxacan teachers strike, which has evolved into a social movement, has grown more tense. The annual teacher strike has lasted for more than ten weeks, since May 22, and while educational demands were the impetus, it has evolved into a debate surrounding human rights and democratic expression. Now other groups have joined the teachers in solidarity, calling for the ousting of Governor Ulises Ruiz, who not only ordered a tear gas showering over the teachers at 4am on June 14, but has remodeled the zocalo and the Parque Llano, destroying trees and the colonial architecture along with it. With so many dire necessities in many small pueblos, such as basic schooling, potable water and access to electricity and in the state of Oaxaca, the fiscal irresponsibility has driven the people to revolt. They want him to either resign or be expelled from office. The mainstream media is saying it is only the teacher demands, it´s more than that. This week a group of woman overtook the radio station and have been broadcasting their message. Just yesterday, the government offices and their vehicles were taken by the group to immobilze the government. It is not dangerous, as the mainstream media is portaying. Some streets are blocked off, but you can freely walk around. There are no checkpoints and no certainly no people walking around with pipes. Speaking of blocked sreets, Calle Reforma, the main artery of Mexico City has been blocked all this week by PRD Lopez Obrador supporters who want a vote for vote recount of the July 2 presidential elections. All this of course is fueling Oaxacan politics as well. I was in Mexico City on Monday and it is a tense situation...Now I am in Tlapa, Guerrero doing my interviews in small pueblos, about to return to Oaxaca City this week...Guerrero has the fame of being aggressive, but frankly the ambiance here is very tranquil and as always, I am happy here...I will write more soon later in the week when I am back in Oaxaca.

Here is an NPR link in English, which is fairly accurate, but isn´t giving the whole picture: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5614073

"A (wo)man sets out to draw the world. As the years go by he peoples a space with images of provinces, kingdoms, mountains, bays, ships, islands, fishes, rooms, instruments, stars, horses and individuals. A short time before he dies, he discovers that the patient labyrinth of lines traces the lineaments of his own face."
-- Jorge Luis Borges

...and this is but a short wrinkle in time, the closing of one chapter, looking onward to the next.
lam, august 2005

It was back to Guerrero, reconnecting and connecting past, present and future NYC migrants. While Tlapa is the commercial center, most are from the surrounding small towns, with Mixteco speakers concentrated in the southeastern part of the state that borders Oaxaca. While in San Juan Mixtepec the cars had license plates from a dozen or so US states and in Nieves, all were from California, mostly San Diego. (There was one Alabama plate, but he must have been the town rebel...) Most Tlapanecos are concentrated in New York City, but the signifiers do not come from the license plates on the streets since, like most NYC dwellers, most do not drive. They are found on the signs, in the money exchange places or in other businesses. The local watering hole on the zocolo, Bar 103, is named after 103rd Street, where the owner lived for six years in New York.
While I certainly do not feel like I am fluent in this language, I certainly have a better idea of the grammatical structure and as always, when you learn a language, you learn more about the culture, which will help in connecting with this somewhat invisible community that is marginalized not only in Mexico, but within the Mexican community in NYC. Many Mixteco speakers are right in my backyard in the 90's/100's streets on the Upper West Side or in East Harlem, so there will be no excuse not to practice - although the variety I was learning is a bit different from the Guerrero variety, undoubtedly setting me up for some intercultural faux pas.

As much as we were looking forward to the three day respite down on the coast and even though Puerto Escondido is one of the greatest surf spots in the world, the summer humidity really made it impossible to do anything but lounge. I think it was just as hot as the NYC heatwave...the only difference was that I could hang in the hammock and hail for another margarita...

Mixteco speakers from Guerrero, Oaxaca and Puebla from the Mixteca region as well as speakers from Baja California/San Diego attended the annual Mixteco Congreso in Tilontongo. About 2 1/2 hours east from Oaxaca City, Tilontongo is considered the cultural heartland of the Mixteco culture as the ruins of Monte Negro were the ceremonial grounds for the ancient Mixtecs. The ruins are only partially excavated so far, but are of equal importnce as Monte Alban and Mitla, two other archaeological sites closer to Oaxaca. Mixteco has primarily been an oral language for hundreds of years and only in the last 15 years has there been a movement to create a standard written language, but yet keep the 48 different oral varieties distinct. It's in these yearly Congreso gatherings, where they discuss and flesh out all these important issues relating to the revitalization and maintenance of the language.

Mixteco is turning out to be quite challenging. Apart from it being tonal, meaning that each word has about ten zillion meanings depending on the pitch, it's also very glotal and nasal, sounding nothing like Spanish - or anything else you've probably heard. The 48 different varieties makes it difficult to communicate. Just when I think I have something mastered, I come to find out they say it one way in western Oaxaca and an entirely different way in eastern Guerrero. However, crosscutting all varieies, the language is very beautiful, focusing a great deal on nature, the self and how it all relates to the community. It's very metaphorical. For example, "kata ye'e" is to sing, literally translated to running mouth. To dance "kata yu'u" is running feet and "kata yivi" is running people, but not to be confused with "kata yi'vi", running excrement, otherwise known as diarrea.

The "El Lunes del Cerro" festivities, on the two Mondays following July 16, have the city all abustle with music and dance from all seven regions of the state of Oaxaca. (To hear some of the music go to: http://www.aoaxaca.com/guelaguetza/en.htm)
In Zapoteco, "gueleguetza" means "community sharing", a long held indigenous tradition in which everyopne participates in giving and receiving rituals. Along with the two Monday show days it really is a month long cultural celebration with not just the regional music and dance, but also classical and contemporary. The Monday show, held in the outdoor auditorium overlooking the city is a great event in itself, but the parade, where all the audience members, dancers and musicians meander down from the auditorium hill to the zocolo for the fireworks show is really spectacular. There were all these colorful splashes above the trees emanating from these tall, whistling structures and before you know it the whole church was lit up with white firecrackers and lights. Debris was falling everywhere and sparks were coming down on our heads, making it all the more exciting in safety conscious Mexico.

As they say in Montana, "You can't there from here", and that's how it goes in Oaxaca. There's but one winding road over the mountain to get you to where you need to be. A whole transport system of suburban vans twist and turn over the rocky paths, usually going at insane speeds, necessitating the need to take dramamine pills for motion sickness...Nieves, about four hours northeast from Oaxaca City, was no exception, as it lies at the very top of a mountain passage. Even though we thought we might fall over the edge of the cliff trying to get there, the beauty and the tranquility made it all the sweeter. Staying at our teacher's parent's house made for an authentic experience, perfecting my tortilla making on the comal and salsa seasoning in the mocajete.

It's actually quite a thrill to be at eye level or even taller than everyone when I walk down the street...

These natural limestone encrusted hot springs on the overhangs of mountain peaks make for magical musings. To look oh so carefully over the edge is to be like a bird soaring over the ridge.

Question: Just who is setting off all of those fireworks that go off at all hours of the day?

Oaxaca City is a lovely place to be based. My small, centrally located apartment, down the street from the botanical gardens and one block from the Llano Park, is equidistant to both the zocolo and the Welte Institute, where my daily five and a half hour class is held. It's about halfway through the Mixteco course now. We are a motley crew from around the country, from various disciplines. The fourteen of us are from San Diego State, the sponsoring institution, as well as UC Davis and UC San Diego, Univ of New Mexico, Univ. of Wisconsin and Tulane. Are interests range from anthropology, to sociology, to art history, and latin american studies. Apart from looking at the language in a contemporary migration context, it's been interesting to see how it is used in the ancient codices. Who knew that Mixteco would be so popular?